The Hunt [Part-3]

Curly is unlucky. He just happens to be the closest to you. Your Bushnell Broadhead range finder says 30 feet, give or take. No problem, the Vector can take down a moose at 60 yards. Curly is a heavyset male – maybe 300 pounds – with an antler set that consists off two large multi-pointed antlers on either side and and two smaller frontal 6-8 point antlers. Your TenPoint Vector© crossbow gets its brand name from them.

The more the number of branches (points) that an antler has the more alpha the male is.

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Your bow string, made of a composite fibre, is taut and quivering, held back by the latch, the butt of the Carbon Express bolt nestled in the front of it. Drawing the string and cocking it is difficult in the cold, but your TenPoint comes with an AcuDraw cocking device that works somewhat like a fisherman’s reel. A concept in physics called “moment” makes it easier to reel the string back until the latch catches it.

Curly is sniffing a doe’s butt, relaxed, ambling along. “How about it, Tina? Huh? It’s mating season for C’s sakes,” he seems to be mumbling to her. Remember Tina from Part-2 and how Curly was looking for her to give?

Well, tonight, Tina won’t have to give – Curly won’t be living that long. You look through the scope at a point slightly above Curly’s shoulders and hold your breath as your index finger feels for the SafeGrip trigger guard and snakes its way in and around the trigger. Never tarry at that point – take in a deep breath, two seconds and then, let go.

‘Thungggg!’ – the arrow shoots out in a blur. You strain to hear the sound of the hit and sure enough, you hear the ‘thokk!’ as the titanium of the broad head meets tissue.

The first reaction of a caribou, hit by an arrow or a bullet, is a startled leap into the air, followed by a crazed scramble as it tries to figure out just what the hell happened. That’s exactly what Curly does and in the twilight as he leaps up, you can clearly discern the broad head sticking out from slightly above his shoulder blades, buried right up to the fletch (the fins).

You must have hit a vein – blood is spurting out in gushing pulses, no doubt keeping pace with his dying heart. As his hooves hit the ground, Curly breaks away from the herd and takes off into the wilderness, in the general direction of a small snowbound copse of pines on a knoll around a mile from where you are.

Funny how quickly life returns back to normal in the animal world. Animals are nature’s ultimate fatalists. They know their time on earth is fleeting. They don’t hurry, plan, hoard, trick, deceive, conspire, nope, they don’t. Perhaps they are way above us, spiritually, more ‘with it’, more accepting and more virtuous than us. They are God’s so-called chosen ones maybe? Yes, perhaps they are the ones who eventually have the last laugh.

Not a tear is shed for a downed compatriot, there is not even a pause. The herd is already moving away, unaware of the sudden intrusion and consequent assassination.

It usually takes a while to find the stricken caribou – sometimes maybe even a couple of hours. You pray it will collapse somewhere you can access with your ski-doo or ATV, so you can rig it and tow it back to the shack. You can’t sling a 250lb caribou over your shoulder and walk back with it, no.

If Curly tripped over the edge of a ravine, you just lost your kill. You will have to grit your teeth and go back to the shack and maybe try again tomorrow, though it might be difficult if the herd has moved on by then. There was a guy, over at the inn at Whapmagoostui, who had offered his drone at a hundred bucks an hour, but caribou had seemed so plenty, you had declined. You might need him, in case Curly can’t be traced.

Meanwhile Curly just keeps on going, disappearing in the snow weighted pines, the grey-white of his pelt the perfect camouflage in the mud and snow. Fortunately, the crimson of his blood stands out on the snow and you go after him. You track him for an hour and you finally find him lying on his side, still alive, chest heaving, his eyes wide open, as plumes of mist escape his flared nostrils.

There is no indignation, no reprehension, no accusation, in those beautiful, guileless eyes. His eyes don’t say, ‘Hey what the f–k did I do to you?’ There is just acceptance – a simple innocent understanding, something that strikes you that only Hindu sages are known to have. The SlickTrick Magnum broad head is sticking out between his shoulder blades, its gleam dulled by blood and tissue, but otherwise undamaged. Broad heads are expensive but unless they have hit rock, they can be used multiple times.

As you sit on your haunches and watch the life ebb out of Curly, you note that the spurts of blood have waned to just a trickle now – he does not have much time left, maybe seconds. You will be able to extricate the arrow only after you have cut Curly open later on. You are filled with a strange melancholy as you regard Curly silently. You don’t enjoy the sight of a living being dying right in front of your eyes, especially when you are the one that despatched that being.

“I’m sorry it had to end this way, Curly,” your voice is a muted whisper as you reach out to touch the fine silky down on his heaving chest,” I hunt for food. In my place, you would too. “ You immediately start feeling better.

That’s of course a lie. You hunt for pleasure, for the thrill. But you are you, corrupted by the world you live in.

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Suddenly  you sense that you are not alone and you stiffen. Your time at the SOAS has given you, not just a sixth, but a seventh, eighth and a ninth sense. There is a shuffle in the snow behind you and at the same instant, your SOAS training kicks in, suppressing the impulse to immediately turn and look. In the world of carnivores, sudden turns can be fatal.

You gradually swivel your eyes and now you can see them clearly. Coyotes – you let out a sigh of relief, in the form of a blast of steam from your nostrils. Coyotes are cowardly, not known to kill unless they are certain the prey is incapacitated.

A pack of arctic coyotes have formed a U-shaped half ring behind you, low growls and snivels coming out of their bared teeth, along with clouds of steam from flared nostrils. Arctic coyotes are like their cousins, the wolves – cute, but cold and emotion-free. You could literally die trying to cuddle one, trust me.

Remember the road runner cartoon that has a scrawny, dumb coyote called Wile-e-Coyote who gets outwitted by the road runner every time? Well, coyotes aren’t dumb at all. They are just dirty sons of bitches. They kill caribou but they don’t like the taste of venison. They find some sort of macabre pleasure in transforming the poor deer into chunks of flesh and leaving those chunks there. Coyotes are crazy about fowl, like partridge, grouse and wild turkey, not deer.

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The coyotes had been there first actually and they were on the verge of tearing Curly apart, when they sensed your approach. Oh yeah, that is another lesson you have learned early in your life – always remain downwind.

But this time, Curly had been downwind and you had no choice. The coyotes caught your scent and retreated behind some shrubs at the periphery of your vision. You know they are still there somewhere, just not exactly where.

You remove the outer glove from your right hand and ease the Glock out of your jacket pocket. In slow motion, you swing it up in the air and fire a round. Startled by the shot and dazzled by the gaudy orange and yellow hunting vest that you have on, the coyotes quickly melt into the snow.

The vest is important. You don’t want a Dick Cheney clone mistaking you for a caribou and drawing a bead on you inadvertently. There are assholes like Dick Cheney everywhere. In Quebec, fatal hunting gun accidents aren’t prosecuted. They figure that if you believe that the caribou had it coming, then your accidental victim had it coming too.

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I’ll switch to first person now. I can do dat. It’s my fookin blog, remember? It’s about me anyway.

My encounter with the coyotes was the last day of the season. It’s over now. Hunting season has shut down for the year.

Of course, I can still go out and get some coyotes or rabbits. For coyotes, there are no stipulated bag limits in the Montérégie where I live and so, a couple of years back when I came up empty handed at the end of the season with no kills, I went on a rampage.

I offed at least 20 coyotes that December. I didn’t eat ‘em of course. Interestingly, we kill coyotes but never think of eating ‘em. Sure, coyote meat is kinda rubbery, like horse meat or bear meat, but we eat bears and horses. Then how come we wrinkle our noses when it comes to the coyotes?

Simon, next door, tells me this is one of those conundrums, but I think it’s the stigma attached to coyotes – bullies in a pack but wimpy cowards when alone, streaked with dirt, fur always messed up with flecks of blood from the numerous daily skirmishes over scraps of kill left over by hunters – that scavenging, sniveling persona that has grown round them.

The last coyote I killed was a female, a magnificent specimen the size of a full grown German Shepherd, encased in long, thick, fluffy, dirty grey fur. She was barely breathing when I came upon her, the round having passed right through her chest. Startling blue eyes stared up at me, unwavering and cold, the acceptance of the suddenness of life’s twists and turns writ large in them.

At some other time and setting, I might have hugged her, but after you are out hunting a while, you learn not to get carried away with wild animals if you want ta stay alive. Coyotes are dogs without the love gene.

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In Canada, all farm-owners are hunters and trappers too, since their farms invariably teem with wildlife of all sorts, throughout the year. If you own a medium sized farm in Canada of say twennie acres, you’ll never have to buy even a single pound of meat at the grocery store as long as you live. You’ll be dining on fresh venison, turkey, partridge, duck, rabbit – all year long.

I hunt at Cedric’s 100-acre spread that abuts a massive wild life reserve known as Parc Omega, in Montebello, just over an hour from where I live. Cedric and I have known each ever since, one stormy February night in 2010, I had stopped on the 20-East and pulled out his unconscious wife from a Jeep Cherokee that had skidded into a ditch and was about to be completely swallowed up by snow. I had dragged Gina’s limp body across 100 feet of asphalt and laid her across the back seat and covered her with my jacket and driven her to the Valleyfield Emergency, calling 911 ahead so they’d be ready for her.

They are very different – the Provenchers. Barely literate deep rust belt, 200% Trump constituency, living practically cut off from the outside world. Historically these folks are virulently bigoted and if you stop at a village for a coffee and gas, they’ll be nice if you don’t stay too long.

But me – I am family now. Nothing happens at the Provencher household that they don’t make sure I am a part of. When he found out I was an avid hunter, he took me out and swept his arms over the dense forest land that I could make out over the horizon and said, ‘From now, this is your land to hunt, come and go as you like.’

As word of Gina’s miraculous escape spread through neighboring farms, a little old brown Bengali from a hick town named Durgapur in Eastern India became one of the most beloved human beings in the region.

Christmas now is at the Provencher spread every year. Gina’s twin, Sophia, a spinster who has a kind of ethereal beauty, has learned how ta make tandoori chicken and its funny how Gina finds ways for Sophia and me to end up sitting side by side at the dinner table every time.

Of course, the secret of a friendship is give and take. I never fail to share my kills with Cedric. This time too, I let him have the coyotes. He in turn would probably sell the fur to Canada Goose, Kanuk or other high end parka places at around eighty quid a piece. You buy that same parka for upwards of $1000 a piece.

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But killing coyotes is not my style. Large game hunting (bear, deer, moose) is and that’s off limits by the end of November.

Funny, but the large game (especially the whitetail) somehow sense that the hunting season has ended and that it is okay now to be swaggering around, with not a care in the world, with no need to wait until dark. Post-season, if the whitetail could use their hooves to thumb their nostrils at you, they would.

There is a small town of four hundred souls on the Quebec-Ontario border named Duhamel, a stone’s throw from the Provencher spread – as pretty a town as you can ever find anywhere on God’s earth. Local farmers like Cedric ride into town on their pick-up trucks once a month and stock up on non-perishables like toilet paper and shampoo – anything that they are unable ta grow.

When the hunting season draws to a close, Duhamel begins ta look like Times Square for whitetail. There are more deer than humans in that town then. The town folk are okay with it. You keep your kitchen door ajar in Duhamel and go take a shower and when you come back down, there might be a whitetail taking a peek inside your fridge for yummy stuff.

Post-season, everybody in Duhamel makes nice. Almost every home in Duhamel acquires a pet whitetail and every home has mountain-sized sacks of carrots and apples to feed them. Off season, like Robert DeNiro’s Don Lino in ‘Shark Tale’ every Duhamel citizen says ‘deer are our friends, we shouldn’t eat deer’.

Until the next hunting season – when those very same Don Linos turn blood thirsty just like in the movie and all those pet whitetails that had been prancing around town disappear from view. They are now looked at as juicy venison cuts and steaks.

Cool.

I am not finished yet. Watch out for Part-4.

Fierté Montreal – Haj, for Gay Folks

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I am out of the closet and it is exhilarating!!!” – a 40-yr old parade participant, mother of two, at the Montreal Pride Parade. She had come out the week prior.

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Trans, not afraid to show it

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Unfettered joy

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Worldwide, homosexuals are leaping out of the closet with gay abandon, pun intended. A 27-nation 2021 Ipsos-Mori Survey of the LGBT community has found that in the west, where I live, 70% of respondents said that, not only do they have at least one LGBTQ relative, but that they are fine with it.

2500 years back, homosexuality was considered a normal sexual orientation. In ancient Greece, homosexuality was built into the social fabric itself, as a part of growing up.

In the pre-Christian world, men fucking other men was du jour. Philosophers of the day, Aristotle and Socrates, waxed eloquent on how the human anatomy had placed the anus in just right level and orientation to be shtupped by the erect penis of another man, so convenient that even the anal passage had the same angle of inclination to the horizontal as a fully erect penis.  Therefore they surmised that, we were all meant to be fucked up our asses. I can see Euclid exclaiming, ‘QED!’

Homosexuality even had a hybrid – pedarasty, the sexual union of an adult male and a preteen(tween) boy. That would be pedophilia and would rightfully earn a man a lengthy jail sentence today.

In Ancient Greece, a man’s sexual development went through pre-ordained phases. Pedarasty preceded heterosexuality. Gay sex was boot camp before a man stepped into marriage to a woman. No one questioned the morality of homosexuality. It was understood that if you were a teenaged boy, you stood a good chance of being shtupped up your ass, until you grew into adulthood, when it would be your turn to do the shtupping.

When you finally got married, homosexual sex had to stop and you discovered pussies. Life was exciting, wannit?

Speaking of my own land of birth, India, centuries back, Indian society did not threaten eternal damnation on LGBTs at all. In fact, homosexuality was woven into the Indian social fabric for centuries. The earliest recorded practice of homosexual sex in India is documented in, you guessed it, the c300AD tome, Kama Sutra. Auparishtaka (Oral Sex) between men is mentioned, in a non-judgemental tone. Erotic sculptures depicting gay and lesbian sex adorn the walls of the c800AD Khajuraho temple complex in the province of Madhya Pradesh.

Yeah, men have been shtupping each other for a long long time. Then came Christianity and suddenly homosexuality turned from being du jour to de l’enfer, ie: something abnormal, shameful, corrupting and evil. But then, the definition of normality has been in a perpetual flux ever since we humans have come into being and so have the perceptions of sexuality.

Is homosexuality on the rise? Nope, it has always been there. It’s just that the world is gradually getting more and more comfortable with it.

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It was August, 2015.

I had just returned from an overnight visit to Tadoussac, a village like hundreds of others dotting the Quebec countryside.

There must be a “Quebec Village Template”, they all look so alike. A church spire towering over the main square, that has a Couche Tard with its gas station, a Subway and a tiny version of an IGA(grocery). Demographics almost exclusively white and deeply conservative. Average age around 55-60. Population 800-900. If you are a teen, it is understood you’ll marry your high school sweetheart and work at the lumberyard or your father-in-law’s farm.

There must be a village jester but I haven’t seen one yet.

Tadoussac, Quebec

The joint leaps out of a picture postcard, literally. Neat. Subdued. Not concerned with what’s going on in the outside world. You can count the number of English speakers on the fingers of your left hand. If you are any other color than white, I’d call it this way…..they are very hospitable, once they are satisfied you’re only visiting and don’t plan to settle there.

They aren’t racist. They are a closed community, like a more worldly version of the Amish. They shun inter-racial relationships, not in the hateful, white-supremacist manner that one finds across the border, but simply because they are comfortable among their own, afraid that letting in outsiders will dilute their way of life. Don’t we all feel similarly?

Tadoussac is where the Saguenay River flows into the St. Lawrence River, an estuary that in winter looks like a Norwegian fjord.

On the other side is raw untamed wilderness, a thousand miles of it.

During the three precious summer months, Tadoussac transforms into a bustling tourist town, hosting whale-watching cruises. Yep, If you want to get up close with those magnificent creatures, Tadoussac is ground zero.

Come October, it goes dead once again.

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Now let’s look at the other universe 320 miles south – Montreal, liberal melting pot, home to 4.3 million souls, a full 40% of whom are visible minorities.

The annual Montreal Pride Parade is Montreal’s signature event, a stark reminder of the contrast between the progressive urban Canada and conservative rural Canada.

The parade itself was a grand finale to a weeklong collection of picnics, fireworks and music festivals that had been happening simultaneously all over Montreal’s theater district, otherwise known as the ‘Quartier des Spectacles‘, with Montreal’s gay village next to it.

I was not the only straight guy doing the parade. There were many, even families with little kids clapping their hands and running into the crowds of dancers and dancing along with them.

I shook hands with a grinning Justin Trudeau, the leader of Canada’s Liberal Party, who had a rainbow painted on his cheek. He had the Montreal mayor Denis Coderre, the Quebec Premier Phillippe Couillard and Thomas Mulcair, the NDP chief, all walking side by side, waving rainbow flags. In six weeks, Trudeau would win the Prime Ministership with a majority.

All those big shots seemed like they were having a blast. Except for constables lining the sidewalks preventing the crowds from spilling into the parade, there were no grim-faced men in dark suits, aviator glasses, wires sticking from ears anywhere to be seen. In Ottawa, the Tory leader and PM, Stephen Harper, had joined a parallel celebration.

It was a display of a vibrant multicultural oasis of amity celebrating its openness, telling the world that in order to be a good human being, it is not necessary to be straight.

You rub elbows with the leather daddies, bull dykes, twinks, alternaqueers, trannies, drag queens, fem boys, circuit boys and all the other gay archetypes. It was like a giant celebration of living somewhere over the rainbow. It was Mardi Gras, Halloween, Christmas and Diwali – all rolled into one.

This is the one moment of the year when gays feel legit – accepted. It is an occasion when straight folks like me come out and lend our support, to these quaint and friendly human beings who resemble us but are fundamentally different in a way we don’t fully understand.

I was struck by how much I had changed, from the man I was in India two decades back. Back then in 1990s India, I would have recoiled at the thought of going to an LGBT event, if there was one at all.

And now? Now there is a conflict within Indian society, between the saffron-clad guardians of the Hindu faith and the urban life, where you have the Delhi Queer Parade, Kolkata Rainbow Walk, Bengaluru Namma Parade and Queer Azadi Mumbai. There is even the Awadh Queer Pride, thumbing its nose at conformity at Awadh, the heart of Hindudom.

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“You don’t realize it but your being here, lustily cheering, is so important to us,” said a middle-aged, gaudily clothed, gay woman whom others might have called a ‘dyke’.

I was swigging from a water bottle filled with red wine in it – she held out her hand and I gave it to her. She promptly downed a generous amount, leaving some of her lipstick on the snout. I rubbed it off with my kerchief and took a swig myself – solidarity (ugh).

“Are you are a transsexual?” I asked her, curiosity engulfing me.

“You mean a tranny? No, I don’t have a cock – at least not yet.” Trepidation made me not want to know what that ‘not yet’ bit meant. Anyway, by then she had moved on.

There was a gaunt man in high heels, standing right next to me, blowing kisses at the dancers. Probably in his early 40s, he seemed friendly enough and I decided to strike up a conversation with him.

“How did all this begin?” I said to Mr. High Heels after a while. I should have been a reporter.

“Oh, I’m from New York. There are many of us New Yorkers here. The Montreal Gay Pride Week is to us gays what the Haj is to Muslims.” He grinned.

I tried to imagine Mr. High Heels in Mecca and chuckled inwardly. Allah-o-Akbar, may it happen, like in the next ten thousand years. Perhaps by then everybody will be gay, even Allah himself. ‘Thou shall not covet thy neighbor’s wife’ morphing into ‘Thou shall not covet thy neighbor’s ass.’

Mr High Heels went on, “Coming back to your question, which is – how did all this begin – the Gay Pride Parade actually began as a protest march in New York City, 1969, against the treatment of homosexuals by police in Stonewall. We now mark the infamous Stonewall Riots every June with a parade through town. It is no longer anything political.” He blew a kiss, said toodle-oo and pranced off in an effeminate gait, exaggeratedly swaying his bony ass at the world.

That was when I met Tooth Fairy. At least that’s what she gleefully said she was for the day, breaking into a wide grin, bristling with shiny white teeth. I told her she looked like a slightly overgrown Justin Bieber. ‘I’m Spunkybong,’ I said to her. She liked that, “No, you are Spunkycool.”

Tooth Fairy had a hard, jaded look that most lesbians seem to have – a look that mirrors a lifetime of scorn and discrimination. Yeah, Canadian society may be permissive but at the same time it has enough straight deeply religious folks, who deride gays and lesbians.

I came upon Toothy while she was rolling a joint with weed that appeared a mite dry and crumbly. “Want some?” She put a pinch of the stuff on my palm and I sniffed it. I haven’t tried the stuff since I was twennie. It was low-grade, filled with dried seeds, the kind that you would throw away in Trichy or Kodaikanal, back home in India. The Trichy weed used to be damp, sticky and pungent. And one hell of a ride.

“So, did you meet many straight folks today?” I always like to leave a question in my conversation.

“Sure,” she said,” Most straights at the parade are half-assed. There’s a ton of semi-drunk gay guys out here, looking to get it on, y’know. If you come here in tights or skinny t-shirts, muscles bulging and all, thinking that you’re showing your support, you’re asking for it. Straight men may not get turned on by gays, but boy-o-boy, gays really have the hots for straight men. So, my advice to you straights is – dress plain and unobtrusive.”

Toothy

Toothy was unstoppable – here are some nuggets that I still recollect – her advice to straight folks at the parade..….

– If a gay comes up and kisses you or envelops you in a hug today, try not to cringe, just bear it with a smile. He is just being exuberant, that’s all. But if you want to make out with him, if you are here for your first gay encounter – that is completely acceptable, go right ahead. Who knows, you might discover you’re in fact gay or maybe bi. The parade could turn out to be a life-changing experience for ya.

– Remember, this day is all about gays. It’s like you’re an Allouette in the Saputo Stadium. You need to just go along with what’s happening. Even if you don’t like it or get uncomfortable, take a deep breath and try to fit in. Every other day of the year is Straight Pride Day, but today you play by our rules.

– Feel free to stare. That’s what the Pride Parade is all about. If we were ashamed, we wouldn’t be out in public like this in the first place. Fierté is French for Pride.

Toothy had been rolling her joint, looking around surreptitiously, every once in a while.

“Afraid of cops?” I said

“Nah,” she said,” They are a sweetheart on this one day. They might be hard-nosed, devoid of humor and all, but today, even though they’re all over, they just let go. It’s like as if they have been told to leave us alone.”

By now Toothy had finished rolling three spindly joints. She dusted her palms against her jeans and rose and then, just like that, she gave me a kiss on the cheek and left with a grin and a parting shot –

“And please, Spunky, don’t tell us we look like Justin Bieber.”

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PS :

I couldn’t make it to this year’s Pride Parade because of the aftermath of Hurricane Debbie and our flooded basement.

The Pride activities began on 1 August with shows, awareness programmes, etc, organized around three hubs, the Urban Hub located in the Quartier des Spectacles, the Olympic Hub around the Parc Olympique and the Village Hub in the Gay Village.

Scandinavian, Black, African, Caribbean, LatinX, they were all be there.

And of course, there was a smattering of Indians from my country of birth. Exposure, leading to scorn and ostracism upon their return, dissuaded them from overtly participating in any activity. You saw them shuffling around, hand in hand, trying to maintain a low profile. They scooted if you tried to take a pic. India is not among the funnest places to be gay.

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The Hunt [Part-2]

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Arctic wolves are the ultimate predators. Large, almost the size of an adolescent tiger, turquoise blue eyes and fluffy white fur make them exceedingly cuddly, but I would have ta call you a richardhead if you tried to cuddle them.

The startling eyes and the fluff hide an ethos that is emotionless, cold and entirely self-serving. In the environment they inhabit, being Darwinian means the difference between life and death. They are relentless.

If a pack of arctic wolves find you at lunchtime, they will not stop until you are dead. They’ll form a gradually tightening circle around you, starting with a radius of around twenty feet and they’ll steadily close in. When that radius becomes zero, that will be when they have leapt up at you and begun tearing you apart.

The difference between a 500kg grizzly and a pack of arctic wolves is that the bear will kill you because its pea brain tells it you are somehow a threat. Arctic wolves will see you as the day’s lunch, period.

This is wolf country and again, at the cost of repeating myself, you really need to be hunting in a group so that there are others looking out for you. That is, if you wish to come out in one piece.

Alone or even in twos, arctic wolves just might leave you be and slink away if it isn’t meal time, but then they are rarely in twos and almost never alone. Arctic wolves hunt in packs that sometimes number ten plus.

Panicked, you will of course fight back, maybe shoot wildly at ‘em. Go ahead – you might kill a couple and even grievously injure a few more, but they’ll keep coming at you, in a crouching creep, their pace unhurried. Desperate, you will empty your magazine into them and they’ll still be coming at you, only now their jaws will be slightly open and lips pulled way back, baring large jagged teeth, low snarls escaping through large canines. There is no way you’ll have any time ta reload.

In comparison, arctic coyotes (slightly smaller in size, around the same girth as a German Shepherd), don’t forage in such large packs and most likely can be easily shooed away, with just a flashlight, a loud hailer or a shot into the air. Coyotes turn dangerous only when they sense that you are somehow incapacitated, unable to defend yourself – maybe injured.

Coyotes are cowardly and nasty, while wolves are majestic and brutal.

An arctic wolf is an apex predator, like a lion or an eagle or a great white (or a T-Rex during the Cretaceous age). Nothing precedes it in the food chain of it’s environment. Except humans of course. We are nature’s ultimate apex predator, regardless of the environment.

There, now you’ll know a wolf or a coyote when you see one, won’t you? Just don’t be around them when it is supper time. When they are hungry, they don’t give a flying fuck if they like the taste of your flesh or they don’t. They’ll tear you apart anyway.

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Remember I started this series with caribou? Caribou are easy prey – usually oblivious to the danger a hunter poses them. The herds are so close packed, you could close your eyes and squeeze off four shots and you’d have four carcasses on your hands in no time.

But an easy kill spoils the fun of the chase. So you have left your Lapua behind in the shack and brought the TenPoint Vapor, a baby that is similar to the one shown in the image below. The Vapor fell into your lap literally, when your neighbor, Sam, gave up hunting last summer due to his advancing years. Priced at over three grand brand new, he had agreed to part with it for five hundred quid, along with the bolts (arrows) and accessories.

You had joined a shooting range in Brossard, to calibrate the scope and practice “sighting in”. An arrow from a crossbow follows, not a straight line, but a discernible parabolic path and it is important to “cant” (tilt) the aim of the bow in order to hit the target. The need to cant becomes more and more pressing as the distance to the target increases. The crossbow has a sight that helps you in the sighting-in process, but it needs to be calibrated, just like in sniper rifles.

You have of course heard of a branch of physics called “ballistics” that a 16th century Italian professor at Pisa by the name of Galileo Galilei first propounded. The tax-payer funded Yale degree in theoretical physics has ensured that.

The instructor at the Brossard crossbow range had been impressed by your talent. You were a natural, he said.

At a draw weight of 200lbs – the draw weight being the force with which a crossbow propels the arrow forward – the Vapor can kill a moose at 60 yards. When you squeeze the trigger, the latch releases the arrow with a ‘thung!’ The arrow leaps out in a hazy blurr, covering the 60 yards in slightly less than a second. If you get the moose in the neck or even the upper torso, it will pass right through and bury itself in the snow, upto the fletching (the rear fins).

You have chosen your arrows judiciously – Carbon Express – the very best brand in carbon fibre technology – slick, light weight, flexible, unbreakable. At $50 a pop, it is worth every penny, but you got ta practice so you don’t end up shooting it into stone, shattering the broad head.

Yes, the broad head, the business end of the bolt. You have also chosen the broad heads judiciously. They are 125-grain SlickTrick Magnums, blue titanium arrowheads with jagged flanks which look like props from the Lord of the Rings fantasies and slice into bones, arteries and tissue like they were made out of butter.

Some other stuff you have learned over the years, since the Vapor came into your possession – you got yourself an arm rest that you can either stick into the trunk of a tree or upright into the snow. Your TenPoint Vapor is almost as heavy as your Lapua[see Part-1] and if you want to hit the target, you have to have a steady aim, which requires you to rest your arm for the shot.

A typical SlickTrick Magnum bad guy broadhead

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Now, where were we. Oh yes, you are around fifty feet from the herd and the caribou appear to be milling around, doing nothing in particular. You can almost hear a ‘Hey, Curly, what you doon tonight, its Friday, lets go get some lichens.’ And the one next to him says, ‘I’m a strictly sedges and shrubs guy, Larry. Besides, I’m hopin’ Tina’ll let me hump her tanight. Its mating season for C’s sakes, I keep tellin’ her.’

You may be close but you still have to be able to kill. That is another golden rule in hunting – be sure you have lined up a shot that will kill. A true hunter isn’t supposed to be a sadist. Caribou don’t go down nice and easy. An injured caribou will start running, the blood pumping out of the wound in spurts that keep pace with the beating of its heart. It will run till it drops dead and that can be five kilometers from where he got hit.

Another cardinal rule – don’t run after a wounded caribou. First of all, running in ankle deep snow isn’t easy and the caribou will outrun you anyway. Second, if this is bear or wolf country (which it normally is), you won’t see one coming, so absorbed you’ll be, trying not to trip over a stone hidden under the snow. Bears and wolves just love to see fear in the prey and they interpret running as a sign of fear. Soon you, the hunter, will be the hunted and you’ll be running for your life.

You have ta take it easy and follow the trail. You cannot miss the crimson of fresh blood on pristine white snow, so you carefully begin to follow the trail of blood, while keeping your senses alert, taking a frequent glance over your shoulder to make sure there are no carnivores behind you.

If you were hunting with a crossbow, it won’t be much use as a defensive weapon, so you always tuck a handgun in the breast pocket of your hunting jacket before you leave the shack in the morning. It is a Glock 34 – nice and tidy, should do just fine. When you are looking around for the downed caribou, you will take it out, arm it and hold it in your hand as you walk. Anyway, if the caribou is still alive when you find him, you’ll need the Glock ta despatch him with a round in the head. You take no chances and you don’t get antsy.

You are of course well aware that hunting with a handgun is illegal. You get caught and you have had it. The penalties are huge. You will definitely lose your hunting and gun licenses, besides being fined in the vicinity of five grand, give or take. But heck, this is desolate country and almost certainly there’s not a soul anywhere within five miles of you, no game wardens or forest rangers around these parts. You got ta look out for yourself.

There is another reason why you need ta take it easy and stay alert, though it doesn’t apply to you so far up north. But if you were in the wild down south of the 45th parallel, it would. During moose or deer season, the forests of southern and eastern Quebec are crawling with hunters, especially the government-owned lands where hunting is free and you don’t have to pay the landlord ta hunt. Another hunter, maybe one of those redneck Rambo-like guys who tote a pint of Jack Daniels in their jacket pocket that they are constantly swigging from, could mistake you for a fleeing whitetail if you were running and you might suddenly watch a third nipple appear in the middle of your chest. That could be the last thing you ever saw.

You love nipples, but three nipples? That is crowd.

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Listen, what did I tell you in Part-1? Relax and wait for the next part. I’ll post it once I get my thoughts together, know what I mean? Till then, take it easy.

The Hunt [Part-1]

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North American Caribou

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There is this general lack of interest in hunting caribou.

There’s the cost and effort to get up there and face the -30° cold. Then, they are too damned easy to kill. They are always in close-packed herds of 1000+ beasts, bumping, pushing asnd shoving at each other, horns locking every now and then. There must be a lot of caribounese for “watch it , asshole” or “oops, was that yore butt?” or “stop steppin’ on my hooves, richardhead”.

So just aim anywhere into the herd and you’ll get at least one and it is over. Pretty quick, you have your permitted kill. The caribou are devoid of emotion and they’ll make it easy for you. They’ll keep moving without a glance at their fallen herd mate, like nothing happened. Even if it was a mother.

The thrill of the chase, the tracking, the stalking, the camaraderie with your hunting partner (the sex, if your partner is female), those are experiences you won’t have, hunting caribou.

That’s another thing – don’t ever hunt without a partner, if you want to get back safe. Lone hunters are the ultimate thrill seekers. Unfortunately you are one of them.

All’s fair in love, war and the wilderness. They are all unforgiving.

When you are in a group, there’s the booze-filled revelry after the hunt as dusk falls and the mandated hunting hours are over for the day. Dancing drunkenly by the fire, swapping stories of earlier hunts, like how you got that 16-pointer right between the eyes last fall, those are the very reason why you hunt and with caribou, they are absent.

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Now about you. Years as a sniper with the SOAS, (Canadian equivalent of the Delta Force), have made you a very patient man. You are capable of lying still without moving a hair, for hours at a stretch, melting into the scenery, like an inanimate object would. That is one of the basic skills you have learned in the military.

After retirement, as per tradition, they let you keep your Lapua-338 Magnum and the Nikon Monarch scope and you found no cause to upgrade. At 5000 feet, the Lapua can put an 8.58mm round right between the eyes of a whitetail if he is facing you. The deer won’t know what hit him. If you are situated to the side, you’ll aim for his neck or the side of his head. Either way, he is going down.

But you’re not here for whitetail – they don’t venture this far north. You are after caribou and this isn’t exactly gun country. In the sub-zero environment and a windchill in the minus forties, a gun is virtually useless. Your frozen fingers will take forever to reload.

Then there’s the other possibility….the caribou roam in herds and a gun shot can start a stampede. You don’t want to die, crushed under the hooves of a thousand 200-pounders.

A cross-bow, on the other hand, won’t start a stampede and therefore you have brought your TenPoint Vapor – lethal at 60 yards. The range seems little but won’t be a problem since the caribou don’t mind it if you get real close. They are fucking dumb.

The TenPoint Vapor 470

You don’t want to end this too quickly and so you wait, with the TenPoint’s string stretched taut, it’s two limbs bent and held back by the latch. The last time you used this mother, the bolt had gone right through the left shoulder of the moose and exited the right shoulder, not forgetting to bore a neat hole through her heart on the way. The arrow had gone on flying through the air and buried itself upto the fletching, in the ground, 20-feet from where the beast fell.

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Let me give you a brief about the caribou. The word caribou (like ‘deer’) doesn’t have a plural. A hundred stupid caribous are still ‘caribou’. A close cousin of the more popularly known reindeer, the caribou has the same magnificent antlers but is larger and heavier.

The other basic difference is that while the reindeer can be domesticated, the caribou cannot. You won’t see any pet caribou but go up north and nearly everybody has a pet reindeer or two. It is interesting that, while the caribou’s grey-white pelt is a perfect camouflage against the snow, the reindeer has a much darker, more brownish hide. Perhaps nature saw this and decided to make the reindeer easier to be domesticated and thus, protected.

Aside from that, the two sub-species of the rangifer family share the same habitat – regions of the world situated above the 60th parallel. Weighing in at around 250lb, the caribou is way smaller than the moose (at 1500lb), but still larger than the North American whitetail deer (at 150lb). (More about moose and the whitetails in Part-2).

There are other differences – unlike the moose or the whitetail, caribou roam in large, tight herds of sometimes thousands. And like any beasts that live in a herd, they are way dumber – misled by the faux security in numbers. It makes them easier to kill than moose or deer. The only thing that seems to keep them from being hunted with the same gusto as the whitetail and the moose is their habitat – an environment that is hostile and forbidding for us humans. We have gotten too used to our creature comforts. Today’s hunter doesn’t want to fuck around in the -40℃ cold and face the very real possibility of losing the tips of his fingers, toes, ears and nose from frostbite, when he can just drive an hour east of Montreal and get to kill a nice juicy whitetail and be back by sundown.

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The hunt

This is the Canadian Tundra and here September is late fall. Your Casio Rangeman says its 2pm and the temp is -20 with wind chill. By the end of November it will have crossed -50. You have been outside the shack two hours and already the tips of your fingers and toes are numb and you are beginning to lose feeling in your feet, even with all your fancy gear on. That is a sign that you don’t have much time left, before you have to get back inside the truck, which is of course idling.

You are 20 miles south of Whapmagoostui, a Cree village (population : 20), at the edge of James Bay, the little spit of water which makes the 500,000 sq.mile Hudson Bay look like it is sticking its tongue out at the rest of Canada.

Tundra Adventures, the outfitters at the nearest town, Kujjuarapik, had provided the private charter flight to haul you from Gaspé, where you’d left your own Ford150 at the Auberge sous les Arbres hotel. For 6,000 smackeroos you got a fully stocked shack, a skiddoo (snow mobile), a Toyota Tundra with 100 free gallons of gas (ten bucks a gallon thereafter), a satellite phone and an insurance policy (subject to having a valid driving permit and gun and hunting license). It also covers a free airlift to the nearest emergency ward, wherever that might be. Of course, you would have to be able to get your frozen fingers to reach for the phone. Frostbite and hypothermia are unforgiving to fingers.

It was a scary flight, on a Pilatus PC-12 with a single Pratt and Whitney PT-6 turbo-prop. Scary only because of the forbidding sight of the terrain 12000 feet below – sapphire blue lakes and snowy white pines, little patches amid a horizon to horizon expanse of white nothingness. If your plane went down in there and you survived the crash, you were a dead man, for sure. Even a satellite phone might not save your ass in time.

There had been six others in the charter flight, four hunters just as insane as you and two local Cree businessmen. Those four were hardened arctic hunters – thrill seekers who have done this multiple times and got a kick out of – as did the American alpinist, Dave Hahn, who went back to the Everest fifteen times between 1999 and 2013. The four have always hunted in a group, but you were alone. Lone Daniel Boones aren’t unheard of, but still they command a certain respect in the tribe and the four admired your spirit for that reason.

You are of course stupid to be alone. The Tundra is singularly unforgiving toward folks who venture out into the wilderness alone. The chances of you making it back in one piece, not frost-bitten and not bear-mauled, are less than four in ten when you’re alone. You won’t hear a North American black bear coming until it is lightening your weight, removing pieces of skin and flesh off your back. Don’t worry, he won’t eat you. He just wants to maul you to death, that’s all.

Or say your Toyota Tundra broke down on the hard-packed ice a hundred miles from Whapma-whatchamacallit. Or maybe you just switched off the ignition for a few minutes, inadvertently. In the Tundra you don’t switch off the ignition. From the time the outfitters handed over the truck to you, right up until you hand it back to ‘em three days later, the engine will be running, non-stop. You just have to keep gassing it up, time to time.

But it can happen – the Toyota is a machine after all – and when it does pack up, that is another way to die in the Tundra. For that reason, Caribou hunting is always done in groups of at least four, in two trucks.

Besides, you are permitted by law, four caribou per person and caribou are dumbos who move around in tight herds and unlike the whitetails and the moose, they don’t appear to be concerned that they might get shot at.

You’ll get your four kills within the first half hour, easy. But if you are alone, what are you going to do, carry them all on your back all the way to the truck? And if you try picking them up and lugging them one at a time to the truck –  when you’re back for the second caribou, there’ll be just blotches of blood left on the snow and a pack of arctic wolves as a welcoming committee.

But then you are just that – a loner – and you are prepared to face the challenges that come with being one. Heck, there’s no one waiting back home, so you really don’t give a crap about this living on the edge thing that you seemed to have embraced ever since you got your honorable discharge.

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Watch out for Part-2. What? You don’t give a shit? Relax, listen, you are missing the enlightenment of a lifetime if you don’t subscribe to my blog.

Kuzkina Tetya [Part-4]

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The legendary ice hockey player, Wayne Gretzky, was once asked what his secret to connecting with a speeding puck every time was, to which he famously replied that the trick was not only to be able to see the puck right then, but also to anticipate where it would be next. If Gretzky had been a charged particle, he would have defied Heisenberg’s uncertainty principle.

To Lt. Zhao Baotung (Zao Bao to his schwarm-mates), Wayne Gretzky’s mantra was very much his own, except that it was which way an F86 Sabre would roll that he anticipated.

By early 1952, Mig Alley had turned into an ugly slug-fest. That earlier understanding (the don’t-ever-cross-the-Yalu rule) had frayed at the edges. Incursions were becoming more and more frequent and brazen. One day a bunch of Migs was chasing a hapless limping F86 across the line and the next, it was the F86s screeching into Manchuria in hot pursuit.

When, on one single day, nine schwarms of 36 Migs crossed the Yalu and massacred a flight of 12 slow-moving B-29s, General Curtis LeMay, head of the US Strategic Air Command, reportedly thumped his table in anger and screamed at his aides, “That’s it! To hell with the Yalu. Go in and get those gook bastards!”

Yep, to the Yanks, anyone with slit eyes was a “gook”.

The gloves were now off. Jets began chasing each other across the Yalu regularly. The Americans, worried that an intact F86 might fall into commie hands, planned incursions into Chinese airspace with only their best pilots to carry out across-the-Yalu raids. Those raids came to be known as Maple Specials (because they were anything but sweet and easy).

It was one such Maple Special that Zao Bao’s Mig along with his three other buddies in the schwarm had chanced upon that day. (If you have been paying attention to the earlier episodes of this series, a ‘schwarm’ is a tight 4-aircraft attack group).

Zao Bao had managed to glue himself to the tail of an F86, 37000 feet over the Yalu, when the American pilot yelled into his mouthpiece,” That’s it I’m Winchester”.

‘Being or going Winchester’ was a term American pilots used, to mean running out of ammo, a life-threatening situation requiring an immediate drop-out and return to base. Likewise, ‘I’m Bingo’ meant that a pilot had just enough gas to get back home.

“Roger that, see you at dinner, Mitty, watch out, Bogey right behind……..&%$@!!” crackled his wingman, Yanky Doodle and the headset went silent as his words got cut off suddenly. The American turned sharply just in time to see a fireball where his wingman had just disintegrated.

‘Mitty’ was short for Yosemite Sam, the bushy bearded, glowering but lovable Disney cartoon character, that was emblazoned on both sides of the his F86, below the canopy. Fuselage art was freely permitted those days, no restrictions. Some had May West’s bust or Marilyn Monroe’s butt painted on their aircraft.

There are tighter controls now. A 2015 US Air Force memorandum states that “nose and fuselage art must be distinctive, symbolic, gender neutral, intended to enhance unit pride, designed in good taste. Furthermore, it must not contravene copyright and trademark laws”.

That’s political correctness to you.

Almost every WW2 & Korean War American fighter and dive bomber had nose and fuselage art. Usually women in bikinis or snarling shark teeth. Click on pic if you wanna see larger boobies

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Zao Bao came up behind the F86 he had engaged and dove with it, his altimeter needle winding down so fast, it looked like it would produce its own sonic boom. With 15 dogfights already under his belt, the young Chinese was well aware that F86s could dive faster and come out of a dive more quickly.

“He’ll go into a roll right about now”, Zao Bao said to himself and sure enough, the American rolled into a tight banking curve, climbing and rolling over 360°, his maneuver slowing him down suddenly in an effort to get the Mig to overshoot and come up in front, turning him from the pursuer to the pursued.

Americans call the maneuver a High G Barrel Roll.

The High G Barrel Roll. Blue – Pursued, Red – Pursuer. Note how Red starts off chasing Blue and then after they come out of the roll, Blue is chasing Red.

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An inexperienced pursuer would indeed have moved forward, but the Wayne Gretzky in Lt Baotung had sensed which way the F86 was going and had already begun going into a roll of his own so he stayed locked on, behind the American. To anyone watching from the ground, the two jets might have seemed like a team in an aerobatics display.

The American finished his maneuver and leveled out at 1000 feet, praying that he wouldn’t smash into some stupid hillock or some other obstruction. Fortunately this was Mig Alley, close to the estuary of the Yalu and the terrain was bushy but flat. The American quickly turned east, lucky to be alive, yelling out to no one in particular, “Phew! That was close!”

Hardly had the Yank done breathing out those words when he felt hot Chinese breath on the nape of his neck. 50 rounds punctured the control surfaces of the swept-back wings and then again somewhere in the rear of the F86.

Immediately after the second cannon burst, the controls of the F86 began feeling sluggish and heavy and the instrument panel lit up. Besides its wings, the F86 had suffered damage to its vertical stabilizer (the fin you see sticking up at the rear end of a plane).

His wingman, Doodle, was gone. In aerial combat, losing your wingman is like a death sentence. The wingman flies slightly behind, to the left or right and watches your back. The American also realized that he had strayed. When you’re doing 1000 feet every second, it’s easy to get disoriented and stray. He was on his own.

Then, something made the American pilot turn his head for a micro-second to the right. The Mig had crept up on him, unseen. It kept pace at barely 50 feet, wing tip to wing tip, slightly above and very close, so close that the American could count the rivets on the Mig’s underbelly. He noticed another thing. On its side just below the cockpit, at a location similar to where his Yosemite Sam was, the Mig had an insignia. It was a red star with blue jagged lighting flashes all around.

There was no space to dive and he could never beat the Mig in a climb. A gradual change in terrain precluded any sudden turns at his height. The American knew he was cornered.

There was no more panic, just resignation. As this thought raced through his mind, movement to the right caught his eye and made him turn to identify the new threat. It was his new found pal, the Mig, which had now moved a couple of hundred feet away, waggling his wings in smooth 20 ̊ arcs.

Between hostile aircraft, wing-waggling is a universally known signal – follow me.

In spite of himself, the American felt a surge of relief. His first thought was that he was not going to die, only be captured alive with his F86 intact. And then, just as soon, a picture invaded his brain – he saw his father, Medal-of-Honor awardee Rear Admiral Jimmy Higgins, ramrod straight on the bridge of his 45000 ton flagship, the USS Missouri, five miles off North Korea’s eastern coast, pounding Chongjin with its 8” guns right at that very minute.

And he knew what he had to do. In one fluid motion, he reached for the throttle and floored the flaps. Then, in defiance, he raised his right hand, his middle finger sticking straight up from a balled fist. If Baotung had been American, he might have guessed the message that the gesture sent.

Devoid of ammo, remaining gas not enough to get it home, the F86 rolled over and then plunged toward the terrain below, making contact within seconds and bursting into a ball of flame.

For the first time, Lt. Zhao Baotung was left gaping. He executed a tight circle, just to make sure the American hadn’t bailed out, even though he was certain that the crash had been deliberate. He would have done exactly the same thing under similar circumstances.

There was no sign of a parachute. The Chinese pushed the throttle forward and streaked up into the sky with a thunderous roar, disappearing into a bank of clouds in a minute.

The flight back to Antung was uneventful. The dogfight had long waned, the way tornadoes form, wreak havoc and then just dissipate away into nothingness. The skies were once again turquoise and did not afford any hint of the pandemonium in the preceding half hour.

Including the F86 that day, Zao Bao now had 9 confirmed kills and was officially an ace, the youngest to become one, in the Chinese Air Force.

And the American…. Fighter pilots are a fraternity, friend or foe. Zao Bao only felt sadness at the loss of the American’s life and yes, admiration at his sacrifice. In a corner of his mind he strangely hoped that the pilot would be posthumously decorated, chances of which were slim since none of his compatriots, including his wingman, had been around to witness the pursuit, the wing waggles and the subsequent crash.

“It’s a life we have chosen,” he said out aloud to no one in particular, as he set course for home.

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Lt. Zhao Baotung would say those words one more time, 17 years later, this time as Da Xiao (Commodore) Zhao Baotung, head of Beijing Military Division’s air defense command, based at the Tongxian Air Field.

In fact those were the last words that Zao Bao would ever speak, as his Chengdu J-7 fighter closed in on the advancing Tu-95 Bear at two and a half times the speed of sound.

Out of ammunition, there was one last weapon remaining – the fighter itself, a 5-ton supersonic projectile ……

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I have a problem. I have no idea how to end this series, which seems to have gotten a life of it’s own and won’t let up. I wasn’t even born in that period. Never met a Korean even. Except Kim, the depanneur owner round the corner from where we live. He escaped from North Korea four decades back and still jumps if you come up behind him unnoticed.

Besides, I am tiring of it. I always get sick of things and abandon them, a trait that will never make me a successful writer. The best selling novelist, Arthur Hailey, took two years on an average to do his research and another year to set the collected material down on paper and publish one novel. I don’t have the patience.

Should I somehow set off Kuzkina Tetya or should she settle down in some obscure Chinese paddy field north of Beijing, where she breaks up and contaminates a large swathe of land and generations of Chinese are born looking like mutant ninja turtles who then proceed to migrate to other parts of the world and have sex and by the end of the millennium, the world is uniformly ninja turtl-ish??

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Like I said, in story-telling, the possibilities are infinite.

Don’t wait up for Part-5.

Toodle-oo.

Kuzkina Tetya [Part-3]

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Mig Alley

North Korea – China border

March 1952

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You are probably wondering why the story has suddenly moved to the Korean peninsula.

Listen, this blog is mine and I can take the story anywhere I please, capisce? Just bear with me and you’ll see the connection at some point in the future.

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When the Korean War began in 1950, the North Koreans didn’t have an air force worth its name. Their bosom pals, the Chinese, did but they could not have done much to help since they themselves had a pitiful air force consisting of hand-me-down Yak1s, Mig-2s&3s and assorted other World War II planes that the Soviets had been about to mothball.

Besides, China was itself a paraplegic in 1950, decimated and sucked dry by decades of brutal Japanese occupation.

As to the other communist nation that could have helped, Stalin’s Russia, it was still reeling from the devastation of the Second World War and just beginning to gather its shit together, ill-prepared to provide the North Koreans with any significant support.

North Korea was wide open.

Those days, victory depended solely on air power and America had overwhelming superiority there. Could America have moved in and delivered the coup de grace, bombed Kim Il Sung’s communist dictatorship back to stone age, united Korea into one vibrant democracy that is today’s South Korea and built a permanent presence right at the communists’ doorstep? Did it overestimate the USSR/China’s military capability at that moment? Did America chicken out? I think that it did.

America had no reason to be so apprehensive about a Soviet counter strike.

Yes, a Nazi son-of-a-bitch theoretical physicist named Klaus Fuchs, had recently been saved from the Nuremberg noose and pampered by the US. Yes, he had been put to work on the atom bomb in the Manhattan Project and yes, he had defected and shown the Russians how to build an atom bomb and they had tested their first device in 1949.

But the Soviets were yet to build a reliable nuclear inventory. My bet is that uniting the two Koreas would have been a cakewalk for America if they hadn’t chickened.

The 500BC Chinese military strategist, Sun Tzu, has written that it is necessary to have an intelligence apparatus that has the means to assess the capability of the enemy. Israel’s Mossad and Aman have proved that. America’s intelligence agencies failed to accurately gauge the Soviet/Chinese preparedness and therefore we now have to live with two nations, North and South Korea, both nuclear-armed in an antsy truce, divided by a deadly DMZ on the 38th parallel.

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There is one country that profited hugely from the Second World War – The United States of America.

For America the Second World War turned out to be a boon which saw unparalleled economic prosperity, of the kind that is especially reserved for nations that fight wars in other lands far from their own.

Let’s get a sense of how the America that we know today became the America that we know today……

Before Pearl Harbour, the US was a peacenik nation, happy not to interfere in the conflicts of others, reasonably secure from cross-border invasions by two great oceans on either side and two friendly nations, Canada and Mexico, to the north and south.

Pearl Harbour changed everything. In the words of Franklin Roosevelt, it “awoke a sleeping giant”.

Between 1941 and 1945 the US government signed $175 billion (USD 4 trillion today) worth of prime defence contracts, 25% of which went to just seven companies – Boeing, Lockheed, North American, Grumman, GM, Ford and Chrysler. Between them, they provided the flying machines, the tanks, artillery, jeeps, trucks and armoured vehicles that were required for the war.

American industry provided almost two-thirds of all the Allied military equipment produced during the war: 297,000 aircraft, 193,000 artillery pieces, 86,000 tanks and 2,000,000 armoured personnel carriers and trucks. 

In four years, American industrial production, already the world’s largest, doubled in size.

Numerous large American corporations, that were making cars and trucks, home appliances, toys and other products for peacetime use, switched and transitioned swiftly to wartime production. Ford Motor Company began producing B24 Liberators, 18200 of which were built in the period 1940-1944. In addition to aircraft, Ford plants built 277,896 vehicles (tanks, armored cars and GPW (General Purpose Willys – reconnaissance vehicles known as Willys Jeeps). Chrysler’s wartime production included trucks, tanks, aircraft parts, guns, ammunition, rockets and bombs. GM’s Chevy specialized in all kinds of trucks, aircraft engines and artillery shells. Buick produced the M18 Hellcat tank destroyers and supplied radial engines for Boeing B-17s and B-24s, Douglas C-47s and C-54s. Alcoa, the aluminum giant, switched to airplane fuselages. The Lionel Toy Train Co. began making aircraft parts. Mattatuck, a nail manufacturer, switched to producing machine gun magazines and ammo.

Then there were large shipyards and steel companies such as Bethlehem Steel, Newport Shipyard, Norfolk Dry Dock and New York Naval Shipyard who churned out battleships and submarines by the dozen. By January 1945, the US Navy had 61,045 ocean-going vessels including 23 battleships, over 100 aircraft carriers, 59 cruisers, 425 destroyers, 400 destroyer-escorts, 237 submarines and 54,000 landing craft and assault ships. Plus 37,000 planes.

All of these armaments were built at American factories that were never touched by aerial bombardment.

Before the Second World War, America was a nation ravaged by depression, with a 40% rate of unemployment. By 1950, 5 years after the war, that America was unrecognizable. Those same factories kept on humming with activity, quickly switching back to peacetime production of consumer goods and reconstruction materials.

Every European nation needed household appliances, cars, washing machines, radios, medicine, movies, food, concrete, cement, steel and everything else. Europe’s industrial sector had been flattened and there was a virtual monopoly named America, ready to sell. The Europeans stood in a queue, hungry to rebuild.

America’s employment and household incomes skyrocketted. Every home now had a car, a TV and a front lawn and every man, a job.

America had just discovered that it loved making war.

America had also realized that war was good business. The $175 billion had paid off.

And that is how, in the initial stages of the Korean War, American P51 Mustangs, F80s and F86 Sabre jets (and later on, F100s and F104s) came to own the skies over North Korea.

The term ‘Shock and awe’ would be an understatement. Bridges, railway sidings, workshops, army barracks, civilian settlements, large built-up areas…nothing was spared. North Korean ground forces were clobbered, bombed and strafed mercilessly. It was a turkey shoot.

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Then, suddenly the tide turned. Strange things began happening. Pilots in the F86s started engaging a new kind of hostile jet fighters that looked a lot like their own F86 Sabres, but were heavier armed and could climb faster. They would appear out of nowhere in tight boxes of four that came to be known as a ‘swarm’. Frequently a swarm would zoom right through, above and below a formation of F86s, leaving the Americans gaping, like ‘What the…&???? What were those?’

At first, some imagined them to be rogue American pilots in aircraft that had either been stolen or reverse engineered from the F86s. Given that the F86 Sabre was just a year into service then, the appearance of enemy hardware that strongly resembled and even outperformed F86s, was disquieting to the Americans.

Those “freaky fighters” were the newly developed Soviet Mig-15. In all 18000 were built. NATO gave the fighter the code name “Fagot”, a sobriquet that was meant to be a denigration that soon looked undeserved.

Quickly the American supremacy over the North Korean skies disappeared. The Americans were now fighting the North Koreans as equals. Only, these were not North Koreans actually. They were Soviet and a handful of Chinese pilots in Mig-15 jet fighters that had been loaned by the Soviets to the Chinese.

Mig-15s just happened to look a lot like the F86s.

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As per the mandates of the farce that we all now know as the UN, it was important to maintain the illusion that the North and the South Koreans were fighting each other and not the Soviets & the Chinese, against the US & UK. These were nuclear powers at a time when the rules of nuclear engagement had not even begun to be written. Nuclear holocaust was just a trigger-happy pinkie away. Neither side wanted to risk expanding the war beyond the Korean peninsula.

The Mig-15s and the F86s engaged in dogfights and skirmishes mainly along a stretch of the border between North Korea and China where the Yalu River empties out into the Yellow Sea. The Migs launched from Antung Air Field, close to the border on the Chinese side and the Americans, from Kimpo and Suwon, 350kms away, in South Korea. 

The stretch of the border, where the two sides slugged it out 30000 feet above the ground, came to be known among the US pilots as Mig Alley. (Check out the box shown in the top of this piece).

Since the Americans had a greater distance to cover, they came to the party, equipped with drop-tanks and were therefore heavier and slower, a distinct disadvantage, especially when trying to maneuver or climb out of a tight situation. On the plus side, the American pilots were better trained and the F86 Sabres were more user-friendly and comfy, with heated cockpits that was spacious and a large bubble canopy that afforded the pilot a panoramic view.

But by far the greatest advantage that the Americans had was the invention of the G-suit, a sterling example of American ingenuity. The G-suit was a set of inflatable bladders that connected with a compressed air outlet inside the cockpit. Let me explain…..

G-forces bear upon a human body in motion, during sudden accelerations or decelerations or vector changes (ie: change in direction of motion). The more abrupt the change, the more severe is the effect on the human body. You may have noticed how your body gets shoved forward when you are driving and have to brake suddenly. Or how you feel the securing straps bite into your chest when you are on a monster roller coaster that has begun its downward plunge. In both cases, the force that impacts your body is known as the G-Force.

The internationally accepted unit of acceleration caused by gravity is “1G”. In metric units, it is equivalent to the weight of 9.81 Newtons of force per one kilogram of mass.

Imagine you are a F86-Sabre pilot coming out of a dive to get away from a Mig tailing you. You are pulling more than 6-7Gs. At that vector change, blood fails to reach your brain and your eyes, preferring to remain around your ankles. You develop tunnel vision and black out within minutes. Not a good situation to be in when the ground is rushing up at you at twice the speed of sound.

A fighter pilot’s G-suit bladders inflate and squeeze tight against the lower body parts, preventing blood from going down, allowing it to circulate to the brain. The Mig pilots didn’t have G-suits and many Migs were lost in dives or tight maneuvers, without a single shot being fired. To the Sabre pilots, this was a huge advantage.

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The most severe recorded case of G-force death was that of Princess Diana when her limo slammed into a Paris tunnel entrance at 70 mph. Without her seatbelt on, her body experienced a sudden deceleration, relative to her heart, that had the force of 70Gs. If we assume she weighed around 80kgs, that would have been a force of nearly one metric tonne. In that instant it tore her pulmonary artery, a condition that was impossible to survive. Had she worn her seat belt, the deceleration would be around 30Gs and she might have had broken ribs but would most likely have survived.

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A Mig-Sabre party in Mig Alley usually lasted only 20-30 minutes max. But that half-hour looked like the Battle of Britain, the famous 1941 air battle for Britain’s skies where hundreds of British Spitfires and Mosquitos buzzed around hundreds of German Messershmitts and Stukas inside a restricted airspace of maybe one or two city blocks, often colliding with each other and breaking apart in mid-air.

In the Korean skies, at one point in the spring of 1951, a dogfight recorded 50 Mig-15s, 48 B-29s and 54 F86s at the same time, zipping around inside an airspace that resembled a box with sides just 10kms long.

Mig Alley saw the dawn of a new kind of air warfare – aerial dogfights with jets zipping around at 600mph. Soon pilots on both sides realized that they needed far swifter reflexes in order to come out of a dogfight unscathed.

Dogfights create aces and within weeks of the arrival of the Mig15s and the start of the aerial skirmishes, Mig Alley began producing aces among the American pilots.

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Aces were being born on the Chinese/Soviet side as well. A wiry young 23-year old Chinese, the eldest of three children of a carpenter from Anshan in the far eastern province of Liaoning, became the first Chinese ace of the Korean War.

That Chinese ace was Flight Lt. Zhao Baotong, Zao Bao to his mates in the 4-aircraft Mig-15 schwarm that he lead.

In case you are still wondering what all this has to do with Babayev, his Tu-95 and his bombing run, take it easy, Part-4 is coming soon.

Kuzkina Tetya [Part-2]

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Tu-95 Strategic Bomber

Dal’naya Aviatsiya

Irkutsk, USSR

Tuesday, August 19, 1969 – 02:15 hrs

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Before we go any further, a background first.

In the first 5-8 years after the Second World War, China and the USSR became close allies.

The balance wasn’t an equal one, though. China, then an underdeveloped agriculture-based nation, needed the Soviets more than the Soviets needed China. Had it not been for Soviet-supplied World War-2 surplus Il-2s, Mig-1s, Mig-3s and T-34 tanks, Mao-Tse-Dong would never have succeeded in banishing Chiang-Kai-Shek and his anti-communist nationalist forces to Taiwan.

In 1950, the two communist powers publicly demonstrated their closeness, when they signed the Sino-Soviet Treaty of Friendship, Alliance and Mutual Assistance. At its core, it was a security pact against foreign aggressions as well as an agreement for political, economic and diplomatic cooperation (aka assured Soviet economic aid).

With the signing of the new friendship treaty, Soviet largesse poured in, this time in the form of economic and military-industrial aid. Within a decade, the Chinese were making their own versions of Migs and Yaks.

Then, all of a sudden in 1953, just when the bromance was blossoming, Stalin died and Nikita Khrushchev, a vastly different personality, took over. Unlike Stalin, Khrushchev was a bit like an earlier version of Gorbachev – a peacenik-glasnost type, more Marxist than Stalinist.

When Khrushchev, in 1956, publicly denounced Stalin – an action once considered unthinkable – China’s Mao-Tse-Dong realized he could no longer take Soviet support for granted. The Khrushchev openness could infect Chinese politics as well and threaten his grip on power. Mao wanted to remain hardcore, with his absolute power and his Leninist scorched-earth ideology intact.

Mao’s growing antagonism was cemented in 1956, when the Soviets invaded Hungary to crush an anti-communist rebellion. Mao feared the same thing could happen to China. Helpless without sufficient military might, constantly pressured to obey Soviet dominance in the communist bloc and paranoid that the Soviets could invade China and annex it with ease, Mao began devising a long term plan that would maintain the USSR’s standing as an ally but ensure a partnership that was more equal. He announced the “Great Leap Forward”, a hurricane-speed action plan to modernize China from an agrarian to an industrial economy.

Turns out, Mao’s great leap was an unmitigated disaster. Having already purged the “intellectual class”, he had no brain power available to carry his megalomania forward. The pulling of manpower from the farms to the industry devastated China’s agricultural output, causing a famine the world had never witnessed. Millions starved to death.

Sensing the sudden Chinese coldness, the Soviets began to withdraw their industrial and military experts and aid to China reduced to a trickle. Along a parallel track, Khrushchev initiated a series of moves that would later come to be known as Détente, a period of relaxation of strained relations, with the US.

It was at this point that fate decided to take matters into its own hands once again.

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The 39-member Presidium of the Supreme Soviet, the highest body of Soviet State Authority, removed Nikita Khrushchev. Obviously, like Mao, the members of the Presidium too thought that Khrushchev was moving the USSR toward too much openness, too quickly.

Unlike in earlier cases, Khrushchev’s life was spared. He was told to henceforth shut the fuck up and relegated to a comfortable dacha outside Moscow, to spend the rest of his life in retirement.

Once again a Stalin-like hardliner took over, a guy called Leonid Brezhnev, not as foaming-in-the-mouth as Mao but close enough. Bezhnev’s ascent however didn’t help to lessen Mao’s paranoia, since the Soviets decided to continue on with the détente process with the US.

The mutual mistrust between the Soviets and China gradually led to sporadic border skirmishes that flared up with increasing frequency, until it began to appear like the beginning of a much wider, possibly nuclear, Sino-Soviet war.

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Now that you have the back story, let’s continue with the flight of the Tu-95 Bear……

The passenger on board the Bear, Kuzkina Tetya, was so named after her illustrious twin, Kuzkina Mat, who had made a similar one-way flight eight years prior. Kuzkina Mat had been a test.

Some say Kuzkina Mat was given her name by none other than Nikita Khrushchev.

The story goes that when the Americans tested what was for them, their most powerful thermonuclear device – an H-Bomb that was code-named Castle Bravo and had an yield of 15 megatons, the Soviets gave it a name of their own – ‘Kuzka’, a derogatory reference commonly used in Russia those days, roughly translated in English as ‘pipsqueak’.

Khrushchev is reported to have sneered at the American ambassador derisively at a meeting during the 1961 May-1st celebrations, “My obirayemsya pokazat’ im Kuz’kina mat!” (That’s it? 15 Megatons? Well, soon we are going to show you Kuzka’s mother).

And Kuzka’s mother she certainly turned out to be. Kuzkina Mat had the explosive power equivalent to the simultaneous explosion of 58 million tons of TNT. That was ten times the power of all the bombs dropped in the Second World War. Her mushroom cloud was 64 kms high and 40 kms in diameter and her shockwave travelling round the earth three times, breaking windows, cracking foundations as far as Marseilles.

Over the years, Kuzkina Mat also got to be called by many other names, including Tsar Bomba and Big Ivan.

In comparison, Kuzkina Tetya, though only slightly larger in size and weight, was going to be infinitely more destructive. It had been rated at 105 Megatons.

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The tower broke in over the whine of the Kuznetsovs, the voice over the radio sounding disembodied and almost casual, “Eto dvizheniye. Tetya Dobycha Kuz’kina yedet priyatno i legko, Polkovnik . Udachi.” (It’s a go. Drop Kuzka’s Aunt off and get the hell out of there, Colonel. She has bad breath. Good luck).

Babayev chuckled. “Spasibo , derzhat’ vodku okhlazhdennoy (Thank you, I am not the one who’s going to kiss her ass. Just keep the vodka chilled and stop worrying about us),” he said, as his right hand tightened its grip over the throttle lever and slid it forward while at the same time, his foot came off the brakes.

The Tu-95 heaved and then swerved momentarily, as though it was caught by surprise. It’s nose veered off the median line for a moment, before it regained its heading and charged down the asphalt, slowly accelerating as it raced toward the other end of the runway.

120 knots…130…140…150… the massive bomber labored to reach the magic figure – 200 knots, while the far-end perimeter fence and the south-side guard tower dead ahead, rushed forward to embrace it.

“If we are going by road, don’t you think we ought to slow down a bit, Boss?” Illya was known in the base for his understatements and his wry humor.

Babayev grinned, “Hang on, Illya, the Bear can fly us to the moon if she wants to. Here we go.”

(A Soviet pilot would never refer to his plane by it’s Nato call sign, in this case ‘Bear’ for the Tu-95. This is just a fictionalization of real events).

The bomber staggered up into the air, the four Kuznetsovs screaming on full throttle. As soon as he felt it leave the asphalt, Babayev retracted the landing gear, afraid it might snag against the perimeter fence otherwise. The belly of the Bear cleared the fence with only a few meters to spare.

Thankfully, the land around the base had been razed flat, so there was no possibility of hitting a tree or a phone line.

Once off the ground the Tu-95 labored on, at a 20° tilt until it leveled off finally at 37000 feet, its nose pointing southward. After a while, everything went black as the world’s largest fresh water lake, the Baikal, slid by 7 miles below.

Once over Mongolia, the bomber would gain a further mile up before settling at 42000 feet. Thirty minutes out, the Bear made a slight course change to south-easterly as it entered Mongolian airspace and continued speeding along like a silver dart, eight miles above the barren steppes. It was going to be a nice two and half hour flight.

The last one and quarter hour would be inside Chinese airspace.

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The Bear was not alone. There were four others, strategic bombers all –  two Badgers(Tu-16s) and two Blinkers(Tu-22s). Like the Bear, they were sneaking into Chinese airspace from different directions that very minute. The first Tu-16 had launched from the 444th Heavy Bombardment Wing at Spassk-Dalniy close to the China’s eastern border with the USSR and the second had scrambled from the 326th, Vozdvizhenka, a few hundred kms east of Spassk-Dalniy. The Blinkers had taken off from the 303rd at Zavitinsk in the Amur Oblast, directly north of the Mongolian capital, Ulan Bator.

Like the Bear, the Badgers and the Blinkers too had passengers with deadly intent, devices similar in design to Tetya but considerably smaller in weight and yield – around 8 Megatons each. 8 Megatons isn’t puny exactly. 8 Megatons can wipe out a large metropolis like Mumbai and its suburbs.

Like Kuzkina Tetya, the others had names too. Sestra was going to hit a plutonium extraction facility in Guangyuanand. Dyadya would vaporize a warhead assembly plant at Harbin. Devushka would obliterate the Heiping Gas Diffusion Plant with it’s adjoining experimental reactor, while Babushka annihilated Chengdu, home of China’s gas centrifuges that spun at 30000 rpm, enriching uranium to 98% weapons-grade purity.

Hopefully, Babushka’s blast and fallout would lay waste to even the Chinese state-owned Chengdu Aircraft Industry which had painstakingly reverse-engineered the Chengdu J-7, a replica of the legendary Mig-21 jet fighter-interceptor, a squadron of which the Soviets themselves had gifted the Chinese just two years prior.

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And now about Kuzkina Tetya herself, the device that Col. Babayev and his crew were babysitting to target. It was a classic three-stage Teller–Ulam design, using a fission bomb primary to compress a thermonuclear secondary, as in most H-bombs, and then using the energy from the resulting explosion to compress a much larger third thermonuclear stage.

Tetya was not an identical twin to her elder sis, actually. Kuzkina Mat had only one third stage while Tetya had in total eight third stages, that would go off one behind the other, the intervals of course being in pico-seconds. It was going to be one big party for those frenzied neutrons.

Tetya would detonate in the atmosphere just as her predecessor had done, 2 miles above the earth, but that’s where the similarity would end…..

The 1961 detonation of Kuzkina Mat had a 58 Megaton yield. It been a test, planned over unpopulated Soviet territory, a barren ice-bound archipelago called Novaya Semlya, way above the Arctic Circle. Even then, concern over the fallout and the ecological damage to whole swathes of the Russian far north, had prompted the Soviets to install lead tampers at the second and third fusion stages.

The lead tampers restricted the flow of neutrons and thus inhibited both, her destructive power and radioactive fallout. They were kind of like a tranquilizer to a hyperactive kid suffering from ADHD. The inhibited detonation also gave the crew of the delivery bomber a fighting chance to get away far enough to be able to survive the shock wave.

In comparison, Kuzkina Tetya had a design yield of 105 Megatons and no lead tampers. It would explode over the heads of 12 million living, breathing souls going about their daily lives directly below, in one of the world’s most populous cities – China’s capital, Beijing.

Kuzkina Tetya did not need to be inhibited by lead tampers. She had U-238 fusion accelerators instead, that would do to the fusion reaction what anabolic steroids do to an athlete’s testosterone level. She was set to produce the same energy as a 500-meter asteroid slamming into the earth at 20 kms/second. To anyone with a seismometer within a 500 mile radius of ground zero, the resultant tremor would register 9.4 on the Richter scale.The energy released would be equal to 1.8% of the power output of the Sun.

All told, Tetya would be directly responsible for the deaths of 40-50 million Chinese, 12 million of whom, Beijing city folk, would be instantly vaporized, while the rest would die very slow and painful deaths from radiation sickness.

Tetya’s estimated yield of 105 megatons would equal the detonation of all the explosives that had ever been produced since 492AD, when a short beady-eyed Chinese alchemist discovered that saltpeter burned with explosive force and decided to find out if he could turn it into an offensive weapon, thus stumbling into gunpowder. (I was just kidding about the short and beady-eyed. No one ever recorded what the alchemist looked like. Before he blew himself up.)

Released from 42000 feet, Tetya was programmed to detonate the moment she fell through 11000 feet. It was not going to be a free fall. She would be slowed down by a massive 1½ ton parachute, in order to give the Bear hopefully sufficient time to make it to where it would not get knocked out of the sky by the shock-wave.

Not that that mattered. The Bear (and everything inside it), was expendable, a fact that Col. Anton Babayev and his crew knew well. It was a life they had chosen, drenched in adrenalin and patriotism.

A song hovered in the periphery of Babayev’s mind, one that his late father and his comrades used to sing as they scurried out into open ground between burnt-out shells of tenements in Stalingrad 1942, in order to draw fire so that the Wehrmacht sniper’s position would be revealed……

His chest swelling with pride, Babayev sang out as loudly as he could, “Rodina-Mat zovyot! Vse za Rodinu!” – The motherland calls! Everything for the motherland!

(Watch out for Part-3)

The Main

Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Montreal. Otherwise known as simply “The Main”

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A street like this never sleeps. The bars hum till three in the morning and after that it is the turn of the all-night cafés. They are waiting for the drunks and the late revellers who will stagger in for a coffee, a burger or a shish taouk.

Around 3am, those cafés switch the food below the counters with stuff that was put away because it had gone stale. Even the shish taouk is taken off and replaced with an older, skinnier one that had been tucked away inside a mammoth walk-in fridge.

All the stale food is commonly known around this part of town as the 3 o’clock junk. A drunk wolfing down a shish taouk that was spinning on it’s stand two days back and has just started to smell, won’t know the difference anyway.

Lesson-1 : Post-3am, never eat anything in a café on The Main, unless you want to get into an intimate relationship with a lady named Salmonella.

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Every metropolis has one street like this one, deep in its downtown core. If you happen to be flying in low, you will recognize it very easily. It is invariably the brightest string of lights. It isn’t the biggest street in Montreal, mind you. That honor would go to Sherbrooke Street or Sainte Catherine Street. But it is the liveliest, no question about it.

Welcome to Blvd St. Laurent in downtown Montreal – pronounced ‘Boolvah Sang Lawrang’ in French-speaking Quebec.

You needn’t bother with the pronunciation – no one calls it Blvd St. Laurent anyway. A street like this one will always have a more identifiable moniker, like ‘The Strip’ in Las Vegas. Everybody calls Bengaluru’s MG Road ‘Main Street’ and Kolkata’s Mother Teresa Sarani is unrecognizable because you and I know it as ‘Park Street’.

Likewise, Blvd St. Laurent is known to Montrealers as The Main and it is a boolvah. The French Quebecois fuck with your mind constantly. They put consonants at the end of words and mandate you not to pronounce them.

The only redeeming feature about the Quebecois is their women – the Quebecois girls that The Main is always teeming with. Audaciously forward and precocious, they can lead you right up to the edge until all that remains is your choice – whether to end the evening in her bed or just turn around and go home. I have lost track of the number of times when I ……. just turned around and went home.

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Everything is available on this stretch of glitter – for a price. Whether you’re looking for a gun or a gal, some weed or ecstasy, a haircut or a hamburger or sex in the guise of a full-body massage, this length of asphalt has all these and more.

Every waiter and bartender along this street is a drug trafficker if you need to get high. And a pimp, in case you are horny. These gents have none of the furtive looks and the whispered directions to the alley out back, spoken in a hiss through the corner of the mouth. You come to expect that in my country of birth, India.

Not here. This is the west. Here, everything is hanging out there in the open. You want to fuck, do some coke or buy some weed – you do all these things proudly. Folks here have eyelids that are unbattable. The police precinct that covers this street is reported to be ‘on the pad’. You are better protected from a mugger or purse-snatcher on this street than anywhere else in the city.

The Main is a hybrid, between Kolkata’s Park Street and Free School Street. Except for the graffiti and the murals. Nothing in Kolkata matches the wall art you find on The Main. The talent is simply awesome, at once gaudy and then beautiful. Business owners with building walls facing out, gladly pay for the scaffolding and the paint and let amateur painters go to town on them.

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At the corner of The Main and Des Pins, was a Lebanese shish touk joint called Falafel, run by an Armenian named Ben, where I manned the counter for a whole year back in 2002. I said ‘was’ because I don’t see it there anymore. Restaurants have a short life span on The Main.

Falafel was like a half-way house for new immigrants with degrees who hadn’t yet found a position in their field of work and who – like me – had run out of cash. You slogged a bruising 8-hour shift, rubbing shoulders with more PhDs and medical doctors from all over the third world than you would find even in Johns Hopkins.

No, that is an exaggeration but there was more enlightened conversation and wit in there at Falafel than the College Street Coffee House in Kolkata.

Ben himself had been a respected metallurgist in Yerevan before he came to Canada and started out as a dishwasher in Falafel while he looked around for a job. Then 9/11 happened and the slump hit Montreal hard, this city being the Canadian hub of the aerospace industry. Jobs vanished overnight and Ben quickly realized he was going to be there at Falafel for a long while.

The slump however proved to be a blessing for Ben. The owner of Falafel, an old Tunisian guy, had made some risky investments in the stock market that left him deeply in debt, following the stock market crash that followed 9/11. Falafel went into receivership and Ben took out a bank loan, bought the owner out for a song and took over the joint.

The other day I was out on a jaunt in this part of town, taking photos of the murals that cover every inch of every building wall on The Main and gathering masala for this blog post. I wanted to breathe the air before I wrote. To my dismay I found that the joint where Falafel stood had been boarded up, sold to a high-end eyeware retail outlet called Harry Toulch. Instantly I felt a pang of nostalgia.

I remembered the last time I was there, in 2014.

I had ordered a shish taouk and was sipping a coffee, staring at the crowd milling at the counter, one that I had manned for a year once. Ben came and sat with me for a while sharing the usual gossip about what the rest of guys were up to, who had got a job in his field and where, that sort of thing. Ben soon had to zip back behind the counter.

That’s when I spotted a disheveled guy with a backpack at the entrance. He was leaning against the handrail and scoping the joint with furtive eyes. I knew him well – that was Nick, the fence. He was thinner and paler than the last time I had seen him, more than a decade back when I was employed there.

Nick’s eyes fell on me and he slouched over, ‘Hey man, where you bin?’ He looked me over with watery eyes that danced around incessantly, the mark of a regular drug user. You had to watch it with Nick.

“Need a Mac, an SLR, man? I got a Nikon1000, brand noo. How about an Iphone?” He unzipped his backpack halfway and I was looking at a pile of cellphones, laptops and cameras in there. For guys like Nick, there is only one way things usually go – in a back alley with knife in the gut.

I shook my head and tried out my street tone,” Ah doan have no dough, Nick. Maybe some other tam?”

“Suit yoreself. dude, but I could give you a great deal. Pick any SLR for twennie. Here, take this Iphone, 64 gigs, brand noo, man. Only thuree dahlars.” He quickly realized I wasn’t buying and he zipped up and went back to standing by the doorway, so he could make a quick exit in case a cop happened by. Nick was the son of a low-level associate in the Rizutto outfight and therefore no one messed with him. Even Ben had better sense than to ask him not to loiter at the entrance.

Falafel was a part of my life in 2002 but during my 2014 visit it felt like another universe, even more difficult it is now after more than two decades, to imagine I had actually spent eight hours a day there. For a brief moment of one year, I was washing dishes, manning counters, mopping the floor, cleaning toilets and I was being cursed at viciously by junkies, prostitutes, teenage drug addicts, fences and Mafioso.

No, let me make a correction there. The mafioso were well mannered and polite and they invariably asked for the bill even though I was under strict instructions not to charge them and they already knew that.

For a year I was in the middle of the madness known as The Main. Every moment of that one year, I was like ‘is this really happening to me?

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There were some fleeting moments too, that are etched in my heart – moments when I crossed paths with living, breathing, vulnerable folks during that graveyard shift. One such moment that I decided to chronicle is in the blog post titled Turning the corner. I hope you will enjoy reading it.

The other lovely moments were those murals I mentioned earlier, if you have been paying attention. I have appended below some photos of the murals of the Main.

In the south, The Main ends up at Chinatown, a most interesting place that I have reserved for another blog piece when I have the time.

In the north, The Main reaches into Little Italy, an area that I am not very familiar with, even though I have been there a few times and found that it could be quite inviting, if you happen to dig Italian food.

Otherwise, Little Italy seems too wrapped up in itself and it’s own.

Besides, I never did develop an affinity for Italians – after the Almighty Lord stopped making any more Lorens, Cardinales and Lollobrigidas.

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The murals of The Main

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Spilt [Part-2]

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The fateful lane change by an inebriated captain

When the Exxon Valdez identified floating ice ahead, it followed procedure. It sought and received clearance to leave the south-bound(west) lane and enter the north-bound(east) lane.

At no time, however, did the vessel report or seek clearance to cross even the inbound lane entirely and deviate further east. Which is exactly what the tanker did.

Three hours after departing the oil terminal, the Exxon Valdez cut right through the inbound lane and headed straight for Bligh Island Reef, where it ran aground, tearing a large ugly gash in the hull below the waterline and rupturing 8 of it’s 11 tanks.

The tanker came to rest facing roughly southwest, its hull stuck on a sharp pinnacle of Bligh Reef. At the time, it was fully loaded, with 53 million gallons of crude. Within the first three hours, 5.8 million gallons had gushed out of the tanker.

The nightmare had begun.

Until the Exxon Valdez piled onto Bligh Reef, the system designed to carry 2 million barrels of North Slope oil to West Coast and Gulf Coast markets daily had worked perfectly, perhaps too well. At least partly because of the success of the Valdez tanker trade, a general complacency had come to permeate the operation and oversight of the entire system. That complacency was shattered when the Exxon Valdez ran aground.

No human lives were lost as a direct result of the disaster, though four deaths were associated with the cleanup effort that followed. Indirectly, however, the human and natural losses were immeasurable – to fisheries, subsistence livelihoods, tourism and wildlife.

The most concerning loss was the sense that something sacred in the environmentally unspoiled landscape of Prince William Sound and the waters of Alaska had been defiled.

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When disaster struck, Hazelwood had been below deck, leaving the Third Mate, Gregory Cousins, at the helm. There are reports that the presence of a comely female lookout on the bridge distracted Cousins, who had been trying to get into her pants from the very start of the voyage.

Capt. Hazelwood felt a sudden shudder and rushed to the bridge as the ship came to rest, pierced through, like a grotesque kabob on a shiek. Third Mate, Cousins, had immediately throttled the tanker down to idling.

In an effort to dislodge the vessel from the rock, the captain ordered the engine back on and “full ahead”, simultaneously issuing a series of rudder commands, not knowing the extent of the damage fully and apparently not aware how close he was, to tearing the tanker apart from the stress generated by the full throttle.

If the tanker had broken apart and sunk, the crew wouldn’t last even a minute in the icy waters of the sound. Nonetheless, Hazelwood kept the engine running until 1:41 a.m., when he finally abandoned efforts to get the vessel off the reef.

This super tanker had a schmuck in charge.

By the time the oil had stopped flowing, nearly 11 million gallons had leaked out, contaminating 1,300 miles of shoreline and stretching over 470 miles from the crash site. A combination of Bligh Reef’s remote location (accessible only by boat or helicopter) and a lack of preparedness – by way of oil skimming equipment and effective chemical dispersants – made a speedy response difficult.

At its peak, the clean-up effort involved more than 11,000 people and 1,000 vessels. Workers skimmed oil from the ocean’s surface and had to hose down goo-covered birds staggering around on the beaches.

Now, that’s what I call a gash
The fast-spreading oil proved deadly for wildlife in the region. More than 250,000 seabirds, countless salmon, herrings and their eggs, 300 harbour seals, 250 bald eagles, 22 killer whales, 2800 sea otters and seals perished as a result. Experts estimate that nearly 25,000 gallons of crude eluded cleanup crews and some wildlife habitats are still years away from full recovery. (Image courtesy:Wikimedia)
The extent of the Exxon Valdez spill, considered the US’s second biggest environmental catastrophe, after Three Mile Island.

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In the immediate aftermath, the town of Valdez took on the look of a boom town, swelling to eight times its normal size by the summer of 1989, as hundreds of clean-up crew and volunteers poured in.

The skipper of  the Exxon Valdez, Capt. Joe Hazelwood, was eventually acquitted of felony criminal negligence by an Alaska jury despite evidence of alcohol in his bloodstream at the time of the accident.

In a civil case, Exxon was hit with a $5 billion civil judgment for its role in the accident. For Exxon, the amount was piddly and yet, the suit was later settled in 1991 for a mere $900 million with the active connivance of a bunch of corrupt Alaska lawmakers and a business-friendly US Supreme Court that was on the take from big business long before Samuel Alito and Clarence Thomas came along and showed the world how corrupt the US Supreme Court really is.

$900 million was chump change for a company with an annual revenue of $130 billion in 1991.

For the Alaskan communities devastated by the spill, the reduced verdict was insulting. In August 1993, feeling cheated after four years of calling for action on addressing the environmental impact, a group of fishermen sailed off to begin a blockade of the 800-metre wide neck of the inlet, the Valdez Narrows, which all tankers must pass through.

The US Federal Government was left with no alternative but to step in quick. The blockade was called off after Clinton’s Interior Secretary, Bruce Babbit, promised to release $5 million of the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill restoration funds for studies of the effects of the spill on the ecosystem around Prince William Sound, which began in the following year.

The Valdez Oil Terminal has 18 oil storage tanks capable of holding 7.2 million barrels of crude at any given time. That would be the equivalent of around 5 supertanker-loads, or in other words two-three days of normal terminal operations. The blockade lasted three days and kept seven tankers waiting, while the Alyeska Pipeline continued to pump the oil into the terminal, bringing the enormous portside storage tanks perilously close to overflow levels.

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Exactly 35 years on, Prince William Sound has regained its pristine beauty. Crystal blue waters have once again replaced the thick black goo.

Geologists have reported the burgeoning of new flora and fauna that take one’s breath away. It is as if nothing ever happened. Fisheries are booming and in summer, thousands of tourists rush in to watch those magnificent whales leap straight out of the water as if they were circus artists, paid to put on a show.

As for the oil, more of it is being loaded on tankers today at the Valdez Terminal than ever before. From one berth handling a single tanker and a turnaround time of two days, now two berths handle a tanker each in a turnaround time of one day, a 400% increase in traffic.

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In the immediate aftermath of any event, there will always be some winners. The Exxon Valdez oil spill had a few and they were the hotel and Bed & Breakfast owners, fully booked with 39000 out-of-towners. Now after three decades, those accommodations have expanded and the town teems with Holiday-Inns and Best Westerns and feels more like a resort town than an oil terminal.

On the face of it, in the long term everybody, including the eco-system, appears to have won.

How long will Prince William Sound hold onto its win?

Spilt [Part-1]

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Prince William Sound, Alaska, March 1989 – Definitely not the right time and place to be born a baby seal” This is an authentic Spunkybong quote

Valdez, Alaska

In 1790, the Spanish explorer Salvador Fidalgo, became the first European to navigate up the Gulf of Alaska and sail into the Prince William Sound, a 100 sq.km body of water that is punctured on all sides by a maze of fjords (the Americans call them inlets).

One of those inlets, the largest one, intrigued Fidalgo. Spellbound by the pristine natural beauty, he decided to check it out. He ventured in, gingerly tip-toeing his galleon up through an 800-meter wide channel into a tiny little oval bay just above the 60th parallel.

An experienced sailor, Fidalgo immediately sensed that the bay had all the characteristics of a first-class port. He had his men build a tiny settlement on one side of the bay and then, displaying the characteristics similar to that of a Trump cabinet member, Fidalgo named the settlement Valdez, after his boss, the then Spanish Navy Chief, Antonio Valdez.

Name anything after my boss? You have to be kidding me. I would have named it after a woman, maybe call it Scarlett’s Inlet, after Scarlett Johanssen. I have a yen for Scarlett Johanssen. She has her chatra chaya (Indian for ubiquitous presence) all over this august blog. 

But this is not about Scarlett Johanssen. Please, don’t waylay my brilliant mind. She troubles me enough as it is.

It is not known if Fidalgo got promoted to admiral for his ass-licking or not. Most likely he didn’t survive the voyage. Explorations those days were singularly one-way, with the chances of making it back – 80/20 against. Death could happen as a result of something as piddly as catching the flu. If as an explorer, you lived to be 50, it was an achievement.

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A scam to lure prospectors away from the regular Klondike gold rush trail in the 1890s, led the tiny settlement that Fidalgo had founded a century earlier, to turn into a boom town, if only for a while. The scammers, a bunch of steamship tycoons, promoted the Valdez Glacier Trail as a better route for prospectors to reach the gold fields and discover new ones in the Copper River country of interior Alaska, than the existing trail through the narrow glaciated valley named Skagway in the Alaska panhandle, a hundred miles to the south-east.

The prospectors who believed the sales talk soon found that they had been deceived. The trail was twice as long and steep, as reported and many of them contracted scurvy (a severe vitamin-C deficiency) and perished during the long, dark winter, without adequate supplies.

As expected, word spread and soon the town of Valdez went from boom to bust and began looking like the sister city to Tombstone when in 1867, the US purchased Alaska from Russia for $7.2 million which promptly disappeared into Tzar Alexander’s deep pockets .

That sum is $500 million in 2024 dollars. Even in present-day terms, a paltry amount, for an oil-rich region. Talk about selling short. 

Of course, Putin’s current Soviet hegemony-envy won’t make him demand Alaska back.

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A century prior, early Russian fishermen and explorers had been noting oil seepages along the coast at Iniskin Bay and Cold Bay on the Alaska Peninsula, but they had made no attempt to do anything about the finds, not realizing the worth of the thick goo that bubbled up to the surface.

The first oil claims were filed in the 1890s, well after Russia handed Alaska over to the US. The first well was drilled in 1898.

Thereafter, the work of building infrastructure began. The Richardson Highway was constructed in 1899, connecting Valdez to another fast growing town called Fairbanks, a transportation hub that behaved somewhat like Mount Everest Base Camp, from where early prospectors would spread out into the interior. Fairbanks today is Alaska’s third largest city.

Discovery of massive oil reserves at Prudhoe Bay on the Beaufort Sea followed in the late 1960s. As production skyrocketed, it became necessary to build a pipeline and the Alyeska Pipeline Service Company happened. Built around 1974-77, the Alyeska Pipeline transports crude from the North Slope/Prudhoe Bay area, through an 800-mile long, 48-inch diameter pipe that traverses terrain that is unimaginably rugged, piercing through 5000-foot high mountain passes that are etched into the Brooks, Alaska and Chugach ranges.

The pipeline levels out at the Valdez Marine Terminal, where it unloads the crude into 18 enormous storage tanks, capable of holding 7.2 million barrels of crude at any given time.

Today, with a railhead, highway and its deep water, ice-free port, Valdez has established itself as the primary overland supply route from the interior of Alaska. Along with Valdez, the state of Alaska has prospered too, it’s cut from the sale of oil making it the only US state that has neither a personal income tax nor any sales tax.

Oil is not all that there is, at this joint. Valdez is well known for a burgeoning tourism industry, with cruise ships berthing and disgorging folk visiting from as far as India, to take in the stark and pristine snowy slopes, frolicking sperm whales, Kodiak bears and caribou.

I would like to drop in there but, at $15000 a pop minimum for a ticket in steerage, I think sitting in my basement and saving up for my first Lamborghini and making believe is just fine for now. 

Scarlett Johanssen loves Lamborghinis. Ugh, there I go again. Scarlett this, Scarlett that. Sigh.

Although Valdez’s population has never exceeded 4000 souls, during a short period of a year starting March 1989, it reached 35,000.

What follows is the story of what caused the 1989 population explosion in Valdez……

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Oil tankers come in different categories, based upon tonnage. You start with the handysize (20-30,000 DWT). Still larger, are the handymax (~ 45,000 DWT), and then you have the panamax (50-80,000 DWT). Aframax (80 – 120,000 DWT), are medium haul tankers, while the suezmax (120-180,000 DWT) are tankers that can manage to get through the Suez Canal without their keels scraping the bottom.

And then of course there are supertankers – the Very Large Crude Carriers(VLCCs, 180-320,000 DWT) and the Ultra Large Crude Carriers(ULCCs, 320-570,000 DWT. 

In case the acronym ‘DWT’ is unfamiliar to you, it stands for Dead Weight Ton – the maximum weight that a vessel is designed to safely carry, including cargo, fuel, fresh water, ballast water, provisions, passengers and crew. In short, everything on the vessel.

Earlier, the ‘Ton’ was the British long ton, but now it is the metric tonne (1000kgs).

In order to have an easy visual means to confirm if a vessel is conforming to its rated DWT, it’s hull is painted with two contrasting colours and the border is the “Plimsoll Line”, which is the recommended water level of the sea when the vessel is fully loaded. The photo below says that this vessel can still carry more load.

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Usually, a VLCC or ULCC waits out at sea while smaller vessels, such as the handymax or panamax tankers ferry the oil out to and from the supertanker. Time consuming and expensive but this is more cost effective than dredging the bloody sea bottom from open sea to the bloody terminal so that the bloody channel can accommodate the enormous 90-foot draft of these bloody behemoths. Thankfully, the waters at the bloody Valdez-Alyeska Oil Terminal and all the way out through to the Pacific are naturally bloody deep and therefore there is no necessity to transfer the bloody crude by bloody handymaxes.

Presently the world’s largest super tanker (ULCC) is the 451585 DWT Dawoo-built SA Oceania. It is 390 metres long and needs a radius of at least 25kms to turn around and go the other way.

The Exxon Valdez was one such supertanker too. Though a tad smaller than the Oceania, it was a 1000-foot long, 215,000 DWT VLCC. It was still very large, approximately the size of a Nimitz-Class nuclear-powered aircraft carrier, it’s deck longer than three football fields, it’s two anchors weighing 15 tons each. All that hardware was operated by a crew of just 19 plus it’s skipper, Capt. Joe Hazelwood.

They must have gotten awful lonesome in there.

The 215000 DWT Exxon Valdez

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The tanker’s run usually started at the Valdez Oil Terminal at Port Valdez in Alaska where it would pick up 1.3 million barrels of North Slope crude and then sail two thousand nautical miles down the Pacific coast and unload it’s cargo at Long Beach, California, bound for the Exxon refinery, situated in nearby Torrance. 

Except for the extremely tricky entry and exit through the 800-metre wide neck of Prince William Sound, this was supposed to be a milk run. The Exxon Valdez had done this multiple times before.

The tanker had arrived at the terminal the previous day, March 22, 1989. It had been empty when it berthed. Well, not exactly. Tankers are never really empty, as they would then become top-heavy and tip over, like Pierette, the cashier at Le Faubourg, the cafeteria at my employers.

Pierette’s centre of gravity is situated just below her neck, distributed evenly between two immense mountains that have tiny but easily discernible lighthouses in front. Had she not been endowed with an ample bottom too, Pierette would surely have tipped over.

Likewise, tankers must be bottom-heavy at all times and so, when they’re not carrying oil, they carry water in ballast tanks instead.

The average tanker turnaround time at the Valdez Terminal is around 24 hours. Given the daily cost of operating a tanker like the Exxon Valdez, pegged at around $22000, the berthing, offloading ballast water, loading crude and de-berthing takes place non-stop. 

On the morning of March 23, the Exxon Valdez began loading crude on schedule, its massive Sulzer pumps gradually increasing the flow up to 100,000 barrels an hour by 5:30 a.m. By around 6pm that evening it would be filled to the brim.

By the time it set sail, the supertanker would have 53 million gallons (1.26 million barrels) of crude sloshing around in its 11 tanks. A barrel of oil (42gallons), when refined, produces roughly 19 gallons of gasoline, or 72 litres. Exxon Valdez had on her, the equivalent of 91 million litres of gas, enough to top up the tanks in 2 million cars. 

I love spewing cool math. Heh.

On the morning of March 23, while the massive pumps grumbled and swooshed, Capt. Hazelwood and two other officers went into town, where they spent most of the day conducting the ship’s business and shopping. They spent considerable time in at least two Valdez bars. Testimony indicated Hazelwood downed quite a few drinks late that afternoon. They were back on board by 8.30pm.

Shortly after 9, the Exxon Valdez slipped its last mooring line, while two tugboats began maneuvering it away from the wharf, much like two sophomores trying to urge the hulking high school quarterback onto the dance floor.  By the time the tanker was clear of the dock at 9:21 pm, the sun had already set an hour back.

Once it was a cable length away, the tugs began towing the massive supertanker, backward through the Valdez Narrows channel into the much broader Valdez Arm fjord. The Exxon Valdez needed a radius of around 10 kms to turn and face the other way and there wasn’t enough space in the Port Valdez Bay with adequate depth to allow a safe turnaround. That is why the backward tow.

While the Valdez Narrows is strictly one-way traffic for all vessels above 20000 DWT, the Valdez Arm fjord isn’t. For these massive vessels to transit the entire fjord safely there is an elaborate Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) set in place by the NTSB, which does just that – separate the incoming and outgoing tankers in Prince William Sound and at the same time, ensure that they are always in clear and deep waters during their transit. The TSS consists of inbound and outbound lanes, with a half-mile-wide separation zone between them. Large, colored buoys equipped with powerful fog lights, as well as Inertial Navigation Systems, mark out these corridors quite clearly.

At the mouth of the fjord, the harbor pilot, a skilled mariner who guides incoming and outgoing ships to and from port, bade farewell and shinnied down a precarious 40-ft ladder till he finally let go and leapt nimbly onto a pilot boat that had appeared out of the dusk to take him back to shore.

Immediately there was a perceptible change in the thrumming of the gigantic tanker’s single 32000 hp Wartsila Diesel engine as it came awake. Deep down below, it’s eight 1½-meter diameter pistons began their synchronized 2rpm dance and the tanker crept carefully forward, it’s bow pointing directly out toward the open waters of the Prince William Sound, with the Bligh Island at a distance to the left.

Another six hours and the Exxon Valdez would be in the Pacific.

Small icebergs from the nearby Columbia Glacier occasionally enter the traffic lanes, especially during the spring thaw, when huge seracs come loose and tumble down into the waters, breaking up into bungalow or tractor-trailer sized pieces and bob up and down merrily. Hit hard, they might pierce a hull but, if pushed gently, they bob out of the way with an, “okay, okay, I’m goin’, no need ta be rude’.  

Captains have the choice of slowing down to gently shove them aside and proceeding or jumping lanes if the traffic permits. Usually they decide to take a detour and that’s because slowing down a supertanker takes miles. An Exxon Valdez would need 15 kms to come to a complete halt.

Any deviation from the lane however, has to be cleared by the Valdez Traffic Center. Once cleared, it would mean that a tanker could leave the lane it was in, cross the separation zone and if necessary, enter the eastern, inbound lane to avoid the floating ice. These protocols have been normal and until the night of March 23, 1989, tankers had safely transited Prince William Sound more than 8,700 times, frequently jumping lanes, in the 12 years since oil began flowing through the Alyeska pipeline.

There was little reason to suspect impending disaster. The Valdez tanker traffic had had an unblemished, accident-free record till then, a record that was about to be shattered that night.

As the Exxon Valdez exited the Valdez Arm inlet, scattered icebergs were spotted by the tanker’s radar, that were large enough to make Hazelwood decide to take a detour in order to avoid hitting them when the tanker entered Prince William Sound.

While a detour was considered du jour, Hazelwood went way beyond what the detour regulations mandated. The tanker crossed completed over into the inbound lane and went on crossing that lane, an action specifically forbidden.

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Listen, I need a beer, I get thirsty writing. So, hang in there. Part-2 will be along as soon as I have taken on some beer ballast.